Bucce means skins, as in macerated on the skins. Sour Mirabelle plums, sea salt, and dried white flowers float on bass notes of coastal wild rosemary and myrtle, i.e. macchia mediterranea. Steamed cozze anyone? The vineyards of Cardedu (car-DAY-do) are in the area of Ogliastra, the most mountainous and least populous province on the island; a land of turquoise shimmer and ragged-dry cliffs. Here on the southeast coast of Sardegna the Loi family grows and makes wines from the native varieties Vermentino, Cannonau, and Monica. Cardedu is one of the island's better-known (in Sardegna, at least), traditional producers. The Loi family doesn’t think of itself as a natural wine producer; they are not in that hipster 'giro'/circle. Yet, all wines are fermented with native yeasts in temperature controlled tanks (if needed), and there’s dry farming without the use of herbicides or pesticides.